"Les Folatières" 1er Cru de Puligny-Montrachet 2012
The harvest began September 17 and continued through the end of the month.
Recalling the 2012 vintage brings on two different sentiments. For one, there is the great satisfaction to have an excellent vintage in terms of quality, especially in red. For another, there is the profound disappointment of tiny yields accompanied by the hail devastation of many vines, from Santenay up to Pommard. The weather was difficult at the beginning of the season but improved around mid-July, which saved the quality of the vintage. Concerning the yields, they are very low, and everything that could have contributed to lowering them happened in 2012: small flowering, poor fruit set, uneven berry size...and unfortunately, hail.
Because of hail, the vintage is dense and unctuous. The tiny yields did not bring on higher alcohols - the levels are typical and between 12.5% and 13% - but they did provide a beautiful texture of viscosity. Very happily, the acidities are sufficient to provide the wines with balance.
The aromas are fresh and profoundly expressive. They offer a lovely aromatic richness of white peach and grapefruit with mineral and floral notes as well as an exotic touch of apricot and even lychee.
The attacks are brisk, yet the wines are voluminous on the palate. The textures are suave with generous material and lovely lengths. The finishes are epic, salty and sometimes even rocky. If the Bourgogne level and village wines may taste well early on (within five years), the crus will live a decade.
-Sulfur and reduction subdues the underlying fruit. Here too there is excellent volume and mid-palate concentration to the attractively textured mineral-inflected flavors that possess plenty of dry extract that imparts a sappy mouth feel to the saline, clean and dry but not really austere finish. This is worth a look.
Score: 90-92 Tasted: Jun 15, 2014 Drink: 2019+ Issue: 55 - Allen Meadows