"Les Grèves" 1er cru de Beaune 2008

Le millésime

La météo fut capricieuse en 2008 avec un hiver assez doux suivi d'un printemps et été pour l'essentiel frais et humides qui ont freiné la maturité des raisins et permis le développement de la pourriture. Aussi, fin août les regards étaient inquiets surtout lorsque l'on regardait la météo qui prévoyait encore une semaine de temps froid et pluvieux. Puis vint le miracle, le 13 septembre, la Bise, ce vent du nord, frais et sec, se leva enfin pour éclaircir le ciel de tout nuage, il souffla pendant trois semaines environ. C'était exactement ce qu'il nous fallait : de la lumière pour achever la maturité, puis des nuits froides pour conserver l'acidité, et enfin un vent sec pour stopper et sécher la pourriture. Il suffisait alors d'attendre... Nous avons commencé les vendanges fin septembre dans la fraîcheur et la luminosité d'un soleil radieux. In fine, même si les quantités sont faibles, 2008 est une très belle surprise, un millésime très bourguignon avec des arômes issus d'une maturation tardive qui ne sont pas sans rappeler ceux de 1978.

Notes de dégustation

-This is also distinctly floral but with much more deeply pitched fruit aromas that are
earthier as well and this emphasis on earth continues onto the supple, forward and round flavors that manage to retain a fine sense of detail and tension on the serious, long, austere and firm finish. This is very Grèves and will require at least a decade to be at its best.   Allen MEADOWS – BURGHOUND

-Bright medium red. Slightly medicinal aromas of smoke and crushed stone. Juicy, dry and classic, with a strong impression of calcaire energy giving lift to the middle palate. Both savory and sweet, and long and floral on the brisk aftertasteStephen TANZER

-The 2008 Beaune Grèves possesses gorgeous inner perfume, silky tannins and gorgeous harmony. Today it is tightly coiled and inward, yet it holds tons of promise for the future. The Grèves was made with 2/3rds whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2023. Rating: 91 - Drink 2015 - 2023   - Review by Antonio Galloni

-Iris, bittersweet herbs, shrimp shell reduction, crushed stone, and fresh red berries scent and flavor the lean but refreshing and saliva-inducing de Montille 2008 Beaune Les Greves. There is textural refinement incorporating subtly creaminess here which offers welcome counterpoint to the tartly fresh fruit that is so typical of its vintage. As it takes on air, this Pinot's sense of inner-mouth floral perfume growers impressively, and it displays finishing savor and sheer refreshment that compulsively entice the next sip. As with a number of the lighter de Montille 2008s, this exhibits notable virtues of a white wine. I expect it will be worth following for the better part of a decade. Etienne de Montille related having taken great pains in early September, 2008 to stave-off encroaching rot and promote ripeness, and felt that his rigorous leaf-pulling and crop-thinning – not to mention eventual triage – paid off sufficiently that he could vinify a substantial portion of the 2008 crop in his preferred manner, utilizing a high proportion of stems and whole clusters (100% in the case of this year's grand crus and top premier crus). Those wines for which a point spread is indicated were all last tasted shortly before their early spring bottling as finished assemblages in tank – whence they had been racked at the end of 2009 because de Montille did not think their fruit density or lees quality would have supported longer barrel-elevage. (Despite my longstanding predilection for de Montille and his wines, I regret to report that time and circumstance conspired to keep me from tasting his 2007s.) Rating: 90 Review by David Schildknecht

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